By Nikki Goth Itoi

It is easy to overlook the village of Bivio on a journey through Switzerland's Graubünden canton. The Bernina Express train route that connects Lugano to Chur won't take you there. Bus service is infrequent, at least by Swiss standards. And most guidebooks, including Lonely Planet and Rick Steves, omit Bivio entirely from their coverage of the region-which is exactly why you should go.

Situated at the junction of two historic mountain passes-the Julier and the Septimer-at the edge of the Engadine preserve, and just 22 km from the famed ski resort of St. Moritz, this alpine village of 260 residents offers convenient access to some of the most spectacular hiking, wildflower blooms, and ski touring found anywhere in the Alps. Backcountry skiers do overrun the town during the winter high season, but they are primarily Swiss, German, and Austrian visitors, not Americans.

Summer brings hikers, mountain bikers, and motorcyclists to the winding roads and rugged terrain. (Also among Bivio's regular guests are herds of cows that arrive by train from farms near Bern to graze the surrounding pastures in summer-no wonder the milk chocolate tastes so good.) And in the spring and autumn shoulder months, you have the place all to yourself.

In Roman times, traders en route from Milan to Munich stopped over in Bivio (which means Parting of the Ways) to replenish supplies before or after crossing the Alps. The town was formerly known as Stalla (Stall) for the number of horses that passed through. Accordingly, Bivio's founding families are Italian, but German is the language of business, and many locals understand at least some English. In typical Swiss fashion, conversations begin with a Grützi, blend Italian and German interchangeably, and end with Mercí or Ciao.