Relais & Chateaux properties are never in the budget travel category, but they are almost always exceptionally charming, unique places with a high standard of comfort and service. If you are going to splurge, it's hard to do better.

By Lydia Itoi

Staying in style

L'Hermitage de Bernard Ravet

This beautifully appointed small restaurant/hotel, located in the shadow of the imposing private chateau of Vufflens among acres of vineyards, was our favorite stay. The main building is a 16th-century winery, where we were warmly welcomed. The atmosphere was more old-world inn than modern hotel, but without the kitsch. It's a family affair, run by Bernard and Ruth Ravet and their three children, Ruth, Isabelle, and Guy.

There are six rooms and three suites, tastefully decorated in country-chic reds and golds. We had reserved a regular room for CHF 450, but they gave us a courtesy  upgrade to a suite with high-beamed, vaulted ceilings and a view overlooking the tranquil duck pond. The room was furnished with antiques, including a doll-filled vintage baby carriage and an old picnic table. The bathroom had a tiled shower and a rather old-fashioned toilet, all charmingly appointed for a weekend in the country. But for die-hard road warriors, the hotel is also equipped with wireless Internet access throughout. Rooms are non-smoking, but there is a cigar lounge.

L'Hermitage specializes in serving as a base camp for outdoorsy fun-hiking, biking, sailing, fishing, hunting, waterskiing, even polo. There is a children's program available, and a golf course eight miles away. However, in February, only eating and chilling out sounded appealing, although we did take a walk through the vineyards and the village. (The impressive chateau is a private residence, but it can be enjoyed from the outside.) A fire was blazing in the old stone fireplace, and comfortable chairs and a well-stocked humidor invited us to linger. A small bodega in the reception offers treats from the highly regarded kitchen as well as the award-winning house wines.

Unfortunately, we were only able to put the kitchen through it's paces for breakfast. It's a cozy affair, served fireside in the tearoom lounge. There were about 20 tiny bowls filled with a mini smorgasbord of fruits, cereals, and yogurts, as well as slices of artisanal charcuterie and a selection of local cheeses. The restaurant has two Michelin stars and consistently places at the top of the "Top 100" list of best restaurants in Switzerland's, so we'll be sure to grab a bite there next time.

Contact: L'Hermitage de Bernard Ravet, Route du Village, 26 Vufflens-le-Chateau, tel. +41 (0) 21 804 68 68, fax 802 22 40, lermitage@relaischateaux.com, www.ravet.ch; closed Sunday and Monday and three weeks at Christmas, reopening Jan 15.
Daily Rates: Doubles CHF 450
Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 17/20