The hotel is done in the style of the region, with elaborate frescoes both inside and out. The massive dining room is more like a church than a restaurant with domed ceiling, marble floors, concrete pillars, arched side galleries and a raised altar-like area at the far end. It is a lively local favorite, however. Mostly because of what comes out of the kitchen; heaping plates of hearty, delectable food delivered by traditionally dressed servers.

How about Steirische Salatschüssel mit Kernöl und speck würfel (about € 6), a massive salad of giant white beans, chunks of smoky bacon, potato and zucchini slices, carrot slivers, shredded cabbage and greens, all in a wonderful Styrian dressing? Or slices of incredibly tender roast pork leg swimming in rich pan juices (Schweinsbraten mit Semmelkndel und Kraut salat) for €8. A splurge might be an intensely flavorful game stew (Wildragout mit Semmelknödel und Preiselberren) for around €10. Finish up with Eispalatschinken (crepes with ice cream) drenched in chocolate sauce and whipped cream (€4, enough for two) and the world is suddenly a better place. Without beverages a recent meal there cost about €26 for two persons.

If hotels in the Salzburg Zentrum are fully booked or too pricey, the Schorn is an inexpensive and charming alternative. Berchtesgaden, too, is just 14 km (9 miles) down the road.