Long-overdue recognition for a previously unsung destination that has become Europe's cultural capital

By Mark Honan

Culture comes in many forms. A place that combines most of these is Graz, the provincial capital of Styria (Steiermark).

Since Graz was featured in the March 2002 edition of Gemütlichkeit it has enjoyed a place in the spotlight as the 2003 Cultural Capital of Europe. This accolade has seen a slew of prestigious events crowding into the citys already busy cultural calendar. For details of these, visit the tourist office website www.graztourismus.at.

The designation, first granted in 1985 (to Athens), focuses on culture at a local, regional, national and international level. The international recognition this title confers has heralded a €57 million investment into the citys infrastructure and its events program.

Returning visitors to Graz will see major changes, not least in the rebuilt railway station and in the refurbished Hauptplatz. A floating amphitheater, cafe, and childrens playground has been opened on the River Mur. A futuristic new Kunsthaus is being built, as are a childrens museum and a house of literature. The Helmut List concert hall opened its doors early this year and the Stadthalle events center was finished in 2002.

These additions complement the numerous top-line attractions that the city already boasts. Most tourists already take in the gleaming metalware of the medieval Landeszeughaus, where fine workmanship and delicate engraved designs belie the brutal purpose of the 30,000 pieces of weaponry and armor that they grace. For a perfectly-composed vista, open one of the 4th-floor windows which face the Landhaus courtyard and the Schlossberg hill. The armory is bang in the center at Herrengasse 16, and is open daily except Monday (€4.30 entry).

West of the center, but easily reached by Tram No 1, is the astronomically-themed Schloss Eggenberg at Eggenbergen Allee 90 (closed Monday, admission to interior €5.45). This bursts with Baroque pomp in its state rooms, and also hosts a couple of reasonably diverting museum collections. Even if you dont go inside, you can enjoy roaming amongst the peasants in the palaces extensive park lands.

Less mainstream sights include the small but interesting Museum of Perception, where your five senses will be tested and tricked. Its at Friedrichgasse 41, and opens from 2pm-6.30pm Wednesday-Monday (admission €4.00/€1.80 for adults/children; www.muwa.at).

Culture, at a stretch, can even encompass the activities of local boy Arnold Schwarzenegger. Nowadays mostly known as a muscle-clad hero in Hollywood epics, Arnie started his career as just another bodybuilder. You can get an idea of how he acquired those famous muscles at Grazs football stadium, the Arnold Schwarzenegger Stadion. Within the building is a gym where Arnie once worked out. Its visited by numerous tourists, despite the fact that theres relatively little to see beyond a few pictures and bench presses. Find it south of the center at Stadionplatz 1; admission is free and its open 6am-10pm Monday to Friday, 10am-9pm weekends and holidays.

Each time I visit Graz I find something new to discover and enjoy. And now, with all the extra attractions inspired by Cultural Capital status, you can be sure of one thing. As Arnie has been known to say: I'll be back.

In addition to hotels and restaurants listed in Gemütlichkeit's March 02 issue, try these: