Graz Restaurants

This traditional Styrian Beisl has been situated in the busy pedestrian square in the center of Graz since 1660. Its popularity suggests its a good bet to continue in the same vein for many years to come. Housed in an elegant ochre building complete with stucco faade, the interior is somewhat more relaxed and egalitarian than you might expect. Come here for local color and ambience rather than for out and out comfort. Tables can be cramped inside, though theres plenty of room outside to stretch your legs amid the hustle and bustle of the plaza. Protected beneath large umbrella canopies and bordered by potted shrubs, these open-air tables are ideal if you like people-watching.

The food includes standard Austrian fare such as succulent Schnitzels (€7.20 to €10.80), though I usually go for one of the dishes served in a sizzling hot pan (pfandl). The Steirerpfandl (€6) is a tasty and filling combination of minced meat, Sptäzle, potatoes, melted cheese and mushroom sauce. As suggested by its name, wine should be your beverage of choice. Theres a selection of local and regional wines to choose from for just €2.80 per glass.

Contact: Gamlitzer Weinstube, Mehlplatz 4, Graz, A-8010, tel. +43/0316/828760, fax 832544, email: karinpeitler@gmx.at, web: www.gamlitzer.com, Open 9am to 11pm Mon.-Fri. (closed weekends and holidays)

Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 16/20

Landhaus-Keller

For a platterful of traditional charm, a fair measure of character, and a touch of romance, this long-established restaurant cant be beat. Diners enjoy the personal ministrations of husband and wife team Doris and Günther Huber. The interior is formal yet welcoming. Clients can gaze at historic murals, coats of arms, and floral displays in wall alcoves, all the while being soothed by background classical music. Nevertheless, on a sunny summers day you might prefer to take to the outside, where tables overlook the splendid proportions of the adjacent 400-year-old arcaded courtyard.

The food comprises mostly regional and national dishes, reliably cooked and presented with care. Kürbiscremesuppe (€4), a vegetable soup lightened with green pumpkin seed oil, arrives with a hunk of delicious farmhouse bread. Though Tafelspitz is usually associated with Vienna, its excellent here. The beef, from Styrian cows, is lean and tender (€15/€18, small/large portion), and apple horseradish sauce provides the perfect accompaniment. The wine list strongly showcases Styrian vintners, and you can order most vintages by the glass.

Contact: Landhaus-Keller, Schmiedgasse 9, 8010 Graz, tel. +43/0316/830276, fax 830276-6, email: office@landhaus-keller.at, web: www.landhaus-keller.at. Open 11.30am-midnight Mon.-Sat., 11.30am-3pm Sun.; closed holidays and 1st - 6th January

Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 15/20

Wintergarten Restaurant

For gourmet food that wont break the bank, my choice would be this airy restaurant within the confines of the Baroque four star hotel, Erzherzog Johann. Its as elegant as you would expect, with meticulous service. The food is served in a plant-filled, glass-topped atrium in the heart of the building. The feeling of openness (high ceiling, overlooking balconies), however, is perhaps not conducive to romantic dining, and at lunch youll run into your fair share of besuited business people blowing the expense account. Capacity is only 45-60 diners, so reservations are advised.

Meals include national dishes, though often given an Italian twist by the Gault Millau-awarded chef Herbert Bergler. The menu changes weekly. There are a couple of set meals which are better value at midday: four courses, for example, costs €16 at lunch or €35.40 at dinner. Wines (mostly Austrian) are about €3.50 per small glass. During my visit main courses cost €14-€19.50 and included salmon-trout, bream, veal and ox, but nothing much for vegetarians. I enjoyed the venison (two kinds) mixed with a piquant ratatouille sauce. Pure Austrian, is the rich Erzherzog Johann Torte (cake); or theres the equally calorie-filled chestnut souffl with spicy pears and Traminer cream, wherein I could detect chocolate, rum, cinnamon, and lots and lots of sugar. A fine way to end the meal.

Wintergarten, Sackstrasse 3-5, 8010 Graz. tel. +43/0316/811616, fax 11515

Contact: Landgasthof zum Weissen Schwanen, Brunnenstr. 4, D-56338 Braubach, tel. +49/02627/9820, fax 8802, email: office@erzherzog-johann.com, web: www.erzherzog-johann.com

Open 11.30am-2pm & 6pm-11.30pm Wed.-Sun.

Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 14/20

Prices current as of May 2003