Kirchenwirt (Editor's Choice)
The journey to this large, family-run hotel-restaurant, on a little hill, next to a gracefully ornate pilgrimage church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is a popular one. Its interior is divided into a number of cozy rooms, which during our visit were filled with families enjoying a leisurely Sunday lunch.

The friendly atmosphere, interesting menu and freezing temperatures outside encouraged us to settle in for a long, multicourse meal.

A selection of small breads was immediately set on the table with two spreads; one a herbed cream cheese and the other a flavorful Schmaltz.

We began by splitting a mostly fine mixed appetizer plate (7.41 EUR) of cantaloupe wrapped in prosciutto, terrine of game, smoked trout in aspic, chunks of delicious smoked duck breast, and a Parmesan-sprinkled venison carpaccio which, unfortunately, was still frozen. Next came a pair of wild soups (3.05 EUR): a rather bland game broth - though with delicious flour dumplings - and a flavorful wild mushroom (Schwamml or Pfifferling) soup.

One main course, tender duck with red cabbage and sliced bread dumplings (12 EUR), maintained the wild theme but was sadly marred by a too-salty sauce that masked much of the ducks' flavor. A hearty vegetarian dish, baked spinach noodles topped with cheese and a ladle of homemade tomato sauce (6.90 EUR) received better marks.

A dessert plate (5.45 EUR) of dark and white chocolate mousse, attractively served with a dusting of powdered sugar and fresh fruit, was enough for two.

From the Kirchenwirt's extensive wine cellar, which has been praised by The Wine Spectator, we sampled three imported reds and three Austrian white wines from Styria, the Wachau and Burgenland - about $2.65 per glass.

Although the restaurant was full to overflowing, the service was prompt and friendly.

Accommodations in comfortable and well-furnished rooms are also available upstairs. The Kirchenwirt is a Best Western affiliate.

One strange feature - at least in the men's room - I feel compelled to mention is the small television screens carrying CNN in the walls above the urinals.
Contact: Kirchenwirt, Kirchplatz 9, 8044 Graz, tel +43/0316/39 11 12-0, email: office@kirchenwirtgraz.com, web: www.kirchenwirtgraz.com. Open Mon. and Wed.-Sat. 9 am-midnight; Sun. 9 am-5pm.
Rating: Quality 12/20 , Value 12/20

Delikatessen Frankowitsch
This temple of food, an elegant delicatessen/sandwich shop, wonderful for lunch or a light snack eaten in gourmet ambience, is divided into three parts. One is a deli counter that serves quality meats from Austria, Italy and beyond, as well as a broad choice of wines by the bottle.

In a Deco-esque room to the left is a sandwich counter and bar whose glass cases illuminate trays of opened-faced artworks. They are constructed of smoked salmon, baked ham or caviar decorated with egg slices and a filigree of mayonnaise and cost a mere 1.30 to 2.11 EUR. Accompanying is a good selection of open wines or perhaps a little Pfiff (.2 liters) of beer. The third room on the corner is a newer-looking coffee house serving pastries and caffeinated drinks.
Contact: Delikatessen Frankowitsch, Stempfergasse 2-4, A-8010 Graz, tel +43/0316/82 22 12, fax 82 22 12-16, email: office@frankowitsch.at, web: www.frankowitsch.at. Open Mon.-Fri. 8:30 am-6:30 pm; Sat. 8:30 am-5 pm.
Rating: Quality 13/20 , Value 14/20

Gambrinuskeller (Editor's Choice)
Because another restaurant was closed, we wound up at the Gambrinuskeller, in the heart of the old town. It was a stroke of luck.

While there is nothing fancy about this rustic grill house, it has that wonderful, friendly tavern atmosphere one finds in a good alt Austrian establishment. Dark, stained wood tables and paneled walls, green porcelain ovens, large mugs of beer, grilled meats, and friendly staff and clientele are the hallmarks of this strangely above-ground Keller.

The menu ranges all over the former Empire with Cevapcici (minced sausage) from the Balkans, tripe soup from Hungary, and excellent Starobrno beer from Moravia.

We decided to go Slavic with a shot of plum brandy, or Slivowitz (2.20 EUR), to start the meal (my companion, who lives in Bratislava, assured me it is very good for the digestion). We passed on the tripe soup (which I actually like) and ordered a grilled Balkan platter (20.50 EUR for two) that included cevapcici, raznici, pljeskavica and dzigerica (minced sausage, skewers of marinated pork, a spicy meat patty and chicken livers with bacon), all accompanied by another specialty of the house, a large plate of pickled items: mounds of navy beans, lentils, kidney beans, cabbage, beets, peppers, and cucumbers. It was all very good though the meat needed the mustard and spicy condiments served with it.

The atmosphere couldn't have been better. Our jovial waitress had a sense of humor and the eclectic crowd of old and young, from a range of social classes, thoroughly enjoyed itself.
Contact: Gambrinuskeller, Färbergasse 6-8, A-8010 Graz, tel +43/0316/81 01 81, web: www.gambrinuskeller.at. Open Mon.-Sat. 10 am-midnight.
Rating: Quality 13/20 , Value 13/20

Stainzerbauer
This small restaurant, squirreled away on a little cobblestone street below the cathedral, offers an interesting mix of Gasthaus food and haut cuisine. It consists of two cozy, rustically decorated rooms, both of which require reservations.

A rich, Schilcher cream soup (5 EUR) - named for the ruby red, slightly sour wine that comes from western Styria - was followed by seared veal (18 EUR), eye-catchingly arranged above a mild saffron sauce and snow peas. But the evening's best dish was light, tender spinach dumplings (6.70 EUR), deliciously enhanced by a brown butter sauce and Parmesan shavings.

Service was mixed. Our waiter was confused that I could speak German and my companion couldn't, and so just stopped speaking to us altogether.

At Stainzerbauer we recommend the homey, traditional dishes; the more expensive menu items were nicely presented but not worth the extra expense.
Contact: Stainzerbauer, Brgergasse 4, A-8010 Graz, tel +43/0316/82 11 06, email: stainzi@aon.at. Open Mon.- Sat. 11:30 am-midnight.
Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 12/20

 Coffee & Cake

For a nice afternoon break, or Jause, try the pastries and coffee at the Sorger on Sporgasse 4 (Mon.-Sat. 7am-7:30pm) just off the main square.

Prices current 2002