Whether Amway is in town or not, the Mayrhofen tourist office will arrange for overnight accommodations in any season.

During our visit in early February, we learned most hotels were booked on the weekends through mid-March, but it was not a problem to find a room midweek on short notice.

Traffic gets congested in the village center, but most hotels have parking and there are several public lots throughout the town.

The house dates to 1920, when Marthas grandfather built a one-story building for the family and for hosting summertime guests from Vienna. In 1950, her parents renovated the building and added a second story. And in 1991, Martha took over, putting bathrooms with showers (not tubs) in every room and again redecorating. The result is a house that feels new but still has a sense of history, and rooms that are bright and clean, if simple.

In the summertime, she has mostly regular guests, but there are usually a few rooms available. The largest and best is the so-called "pink room," a two-room double on the second floor with large windows that open to a sweeping view of the valley. The two singles are rather small, but one has a disproportionately large bathroom to compensate. Doubles on the top floor are slightly older with smaller windows, but still have good views.

Breakfast is served in a cozy room on the first floor. There is also a business room equipped with a fax machine. The hotel is centrally located near the tourist office.

Daily Rates: Singles 260 to 310 AS ($21-$24), doubles 520 to 620 AS ($41-$48)
Contact: Karl and Martha Felbermayr, Gstehaus Martha, Durst 267, A-6290 Mayrhofen, tel./fax +43 5285/62324
Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 17/20

The front lobby welcomes guests with a breakfast room flooded with morning sunshine, a fireplace and a small bar. Guestrooms are quite simple in decor, but all feature balconies, TV, and phone. South-facing rooms have larger windows that offer a view of the neighboring town of Finkenberg and the end of the Ziller Valley. Rooms to the north have a view of Mayrhofen and the Penken gondola, but the windows are smaller, which makes the rooms a bit darker. All bathrooms are modern with bathtubs, but the lighting wont be sufficient for tough critics.

Parking is plentiful, as the Edenlehen is just a 10-minute walk from the town center at the edge of a field that is the site of the Yahoi Mountain Festival. Paragliders float down into the valley to land right in front of the hotel and then come in to share a cup of coffee or a shot of sour apple Schnapps with the Hundsbichler family.

The Edenlehens only foreseeable drawback is for those traveling sans children. The place is very family-friendly and Andreas and Irmgards four young children are very much in evidence. Still, a member of the tourist office staff told us her own parents like the Edenlehen best of any place theyve stayed in Mayrhofen.

Daily Rates: Singles 460 to 660 AS ($36-$52), doubles 920 to 1320 AS ($72-$102)
Contact: Andreas & Irmgard Hundsbichler, Hotel-Pension Edenlehen, Rauchenwald 676, A-6290 Mayrhofen, tel +43 5285/2300, fax 2300 15
Rating: Quality 11/20, Value 14/20

Despite its central location (about 1/4 mile from the town center), the Almhof is peaceful and quiet. Every room has a balcony, a small bathroom with a shower (no tubs, but plenty of hot water) and toilet, plus a TV, radio, phone, and safe. Parking isnt a problem.

In our small corner room, which featured windows across the length of two sides, we awoke the first morning to a fantastic view of snow-capped peaks glistening in the sun and the Penken gondola starting its morning climb up the valley wall. At night, however, the lighting in both the main room and the bath was rather dim.

Still, if chatting with a cheery hostess in the morning while enjoying a traditional Austrian breakfast orange juice, coffee or tea, cold cuts, cheese, rolls, and jam gets your day off to a good start, then the Almhof is worth a visit.

Daily Rates: Singles 320 to 380 AS ($25-$30), doubles 640 to 760 AS ($50-$60)
Contact: Ferdinand and Elisabeth Moigg, Hotel-Garni Almhof, Laubichl 141, A-6290 Mayrhofen, tel +43 5285/29 32, fax 29 32 20
Rating: Quality 11/20, Value 15/20

Every guestroom is decorated differently, but all feature wood paneled walls and ceilings, a balcony, mini-bar, satellite TV, and separate rooms for toilet and bath. Some doubles are bright and airy, others tend more toward dark and cozy. Most of the bathrooms are a bit small for a grand hotel, and even here, the lighting was disappointing.

Amenities abound at the Elisabeth. In particular, the fitness center is a destination in itself, with a large indoor pool, sauna, solarium, steam room, body styling, massage, beauty salon, and Jacuzzi. And its restaurants, Die Gute Stube, serving Austrian and international cuisine, and Mamma Mia, with pasta and pizza, are popular with locals and regular Mayrhofen visitors.

Daily Rates: Singles 1090 to 2250 AS ($85-$176), doubles 1980 to 4700 AS ($155-$367)
Contact: Thaler family, Elisabeth Hotel, Einfahrt Mitte 432, A-6290 Mayrhofen, tel. +43 5285/6767, fax 6767-67, Email: elisabethhotel@netway.at, Web: http://tiscover.com/elisabethhotel.mayrhofen
Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 13/20

The hotel actually consists of three connected buildings. The newest rooms were built in 1995 and they are considerably larger than the original ones. About 90 percent have balconies. Those facing south have the best view. Most also have a separate toilet and bath, and a bathtub rather than just a shower. Heated towel racks are standard, as are double sinks. And the lighting in both rooms and baths is excellent.

Between the high seasons and the Amway invasions, the Moigg family is trying frantically to renovate its older rooms. At Christmas last year, new carpet and curtains were put in the older rooms; the lobby and guest restaurant were also recently refurbished.

In the oldest part of the house are three small restaurants open to the public, each of which serves a different menu. Other guest amenities include an indoor and outdoor Jacuzzi, a three-lane bowling alley, billiards and table tennis. Under construction in the basement is a new sauna. And the hotel is actually connected to the town cinema and another pub. Parking is available on the street or in the hotels garage.

Daily rates: Singles 720 to 1200 AS ($56-$94), doubles 1440 to 2400 AS ($113-$188)
Contact: Josef Moigg, Hotel Neuhaus, Marktplatz 202, A-6290 Mayrhofen, tel. +43/5285/67 03, fax 63 8 08
Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 11/20

The decor in these establishments ranges from modest and unremarkable at the Sport Hotel to luxury rooms with hand painted authentic farm furniture and canopy beds in the Villa.

All rooms include a bath or shower, toilet, balcony, TV, safe, radio, and telephone.

Nonsmokers and vegetarians get special attention here: the hotel reserves a section of its dining room for nonsmokers and offers a vegetarian menu as one of three daily dinner choices.

For sports enthusiasts, the Strass offers two squash courts, an indoor swimming pool, table tennis, billiards, an arcade, solarium, and a hot tub with its own bar. Underground parking is available for an additional fee.

Daily Rates: Strass Hotel & Sport Hotel - singles 520 to 970 AS ($41-$76), doubles 1040 to 1940 AS ($81-$152); Villa Strass & Garni Strass - singles 410 to 860 AS ($32-$67), doubles 820 to 1720 AS ($64-$134)
Contact: Familie Roscher, Hotel Strass, Hauptstrasse 470, A-6290 Mayrhofen, tel +43 5285/6705-0, fax 63477
Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 12/20