For Ziller Valley cuisine, Wirtshaus zum Griena is the place to dine. Here, Anneliese Steinlechner serves local specialties in a 400 year-old farm house located near Mayrhofens second gondola, the Ahorn-Seilbahn.

The restaurant consists of four rustic dining rooms of varying size. We ate in one that years ago served as the childrens bedroom. Behind us, bunk beds were built into the wall and our server pointed out a small hole in the ceiling which allowed heat to rise from the childrens room to the parents room on the floor above. In all rooms, exposed wood-beamed ceilings are low, walls are dark, and the light dim and cozy.

We sat at a well-worn, thick wooden table in a corner, and ordered green salads to start, followed by entrees of Blutwuchtreaschtl blood sausage and diced potatoes pan fried and then baked in a heavy iron skillet until the top is crusty (105 AS /$8.27) and Kaasschpazlang, sinfully rich noodles baked with cheese and topped with bread crumbs (120 AS /$9.50). For dessert, we shared an order of Apfelreaschl, sliced apples baked and sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar and topped with whipped cream for 95 AS ($7.50).

The menu is written in the local dialect, so even if you know the German words for certain dishes, you might not recognize them here. Thankfully, the servers are happy to help guests make their selections.

The overall effect of the Griena is to create something of a time warp. By the time we finished eating, it was a shock to walk back outside and see a parking lot full of cars. In fact, for the full effect, many guests opt to arrive at the restaurant in a horse-drawn sleigh.

Wirtshaus zum Griena, Dorf Haus 768, tel +43 5285/62 778 (reservations advised).
Rating: Quality: 16/20, Value: 16/20

Two beers appeared on the table almost immediately after we took our seats and began to browse a menu that started with salads, soups, and appetizers which range in price from 40 to 105 AS ($3.15-$8.26). Grilled entrees, including venison, range from 110-190 AS ($8.66-$15). Some Italian and even Indian dishes are also featured.

We ordered hearty meat dishes. First, a gratineed fillet of pork with a heavy sauce, served with broccoli and potato croquettes (deep fried potatoes loaded with butter) and artistically garnished with slices of peach and pear. Then, a skillet of pan-fried beef tips with mushrooms and sweet peppers served in a creamy, stroganoff-like sauce. The portions were extra large and the food was rich in butter and cream, so needless to say we filled up well before our plates were clean.

Kaiserbründl, Marktplatz 206, tel. 5285/62552
Rating: Quality: 12/20, Value: 14/20

• Population: 3000 residents; 8900 guest beds
• Altitude: 650 meters, 2,133 feet

• Munich airport 2.5 hours by car
• Salzburg 2.5 hours by car
• 2 hours by train
• Innsbruck 1 hour by car
• 50 minutes by train

Rail Connections: Jenbach, at the entrance to the Ziller Valley, is on the main line from Innsbruck, Salzburg, and Munich. Change there for the Zillertalbahn which terminates at Mayrhofen.

Mayrhofen Tourist Office, P.O. Box 21, A-6290 Mayrhofen, Info-Hotline: +43 52 85/67 60, fax: +43 52 85/64 116-33, Email: mayrhofen@zillertal.tirol.at, Web address: http://tiscover.com/mayrhofen

1. June 11-14, 1998: Yahoi Mountain Festival (Paragliding)
2. July 6-12, 1998: European Week of Culture. Dancers, musicians, singers, chefs, philosophers from all over the continent provide an opportunity for visitors to get acquainted with the diversity of European culture, cuisine, folklore, and people.
3. August 14-16 10th annual Country, Blues & Folk Festival. Brings ardent fans of the wild, wild west together in Mayrhofen for a week of celebration.

 Information current as of March 1998.