By Nikki Goth Itoi

Castle Bruck

It was a faintly auspicious sign for the Austrian town of Lienz when, on the very last day of World War II, a bomb landed in the courtyard of the seven century-old Bruck Castle without causing any damage. Later on, after years of war, occupation, and economic hardship, Lienz succeeded in converting its castle into a viable historical museum. A museum featuring paintings by Albin Egger-Lienz, Franz V. Defregger, and Hugo Engl; plus Roman archeological finds from nearby Aguntum, and collections of hand-carved cribs and traditional farmers tools.

Today, the locals consider their home to be one of Austria’s hidden treasures historically, culturally, and naturally. They have beautifully restored the heart of a medieval town and made it accessible to tourists from all over the world.

Remarkably, however, according to the tourist office and local hotel proprietors, few Americans travel to this region, (although interestingly the town maintains a partnership with the town of Jackson Hole, Wyoming, which was formed through the famous skier, Pepe Stiegler). Instead, Lienz receives an abundance of vacationers from Italy. Most restaurants offer Italian translations before or instead of English. And most hotel employees and shopkeepers speak Italian, although English is also widely understood.

Contemplating history

Emerging from the Felbertauern tunnel at the southern end of the Hohe Tauern National Park, one immediately senses a place quite different from the Alpine towns bordering the northern edge of the park (Zell am See, Gerlos, Krimml).

Lienz sits in a historically strategic location a wide valley at the junction of the Isel and Drau rivers. The jagged Dolomites lie to the south. The Italian border is just 40 km (25 miles) away, and the main ridge of the Alps, stretching through the Hohe Tauern National Park, frames the northern view.

Granted a town charter in 1252, Lienz now serves as the administrative capital of East Tirol.

The towns Hauptplatz is at the "V" formed where the two rivers merge. The train station is just across the street, next to the Drau, and the tourist office is located on the neighboring Europaplatz. A short stroll about the town center immediately reveals that Lienz is a real business community, as opposed to one that relies only on tourism. The refrigerator manufacturer Liebher provides work for many residents, as do several schools, and an assortment of small businesses and crafts.

A logical first outing is a 1.5 km drive west to visit Bruck Castle, which rests on a wooded hill 52 meters above the valley. Since the hill offers a view of almost the entire basin, the castle has proven itself an essential defensive asset time and time again over the centuries.

There, you’ll walk through galleries filled with the eerie, war-themed paintings of Egger-Lienz, the towns most famous artist. For us, the most fascinating part of the castle was a Gothic chapel that houses original frescos from the 15th century.

Bruck Castle is open daily 10am to 6pm from June through September

Back in the valley, the Parish church of St. André (also called St. Andrews), which overlooks the Isel, is another significant monument. Lienz’s oldest church, it was converted from the Romanesque parish church of St. Andreas to a Gothic basilica in 1430, and has been fully restored with historic ledgers portraying the last Count of Graz (Leonard), and altars that date from Baroque times.

Fun in the sun

Locals boast Lienz gets the best of Austria’s weather in both winter and summer, which is conducive to a host of outdoor activities. At Zettersfeld and Hochstein , the city operates two modern cable cars which carry visitors up to the spectacular views from 1800-2000 meters (5,906-6,562 feet) above the valley floor.

Another popular outdoor destination lies about 4 km (2.5 miles) outside of Lienz, where Tristacher Lake glistens in the sunshine. It welcomes guests to the towns of Amlach and Tristach, which offer miles of walking trails, horseback riding, golf, an airfield for small planes, and tennis courts.

Fishing is yet another Lienz lure, and several hotels (including the Traube and Sonne, see below) offer special packages for anglers. Though springtime, when the melting snow brings the rivers rushing to life, is best, there are several locations which can be fished all summer long.

Another worthwhile excursion is to Aguntum , a Roman settlement that dates back to the 1st century and thrived as a focal point for the trade of metals and raw materials from the Alps. The site is 4 km (2.5 miles) east of Lienz along Route 100. Guided tours are available between 9am and 6pm from June 1 through October 30.