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| Berlin's Savignyplatz District |
| Read more like this: Germany Destinations | |||
The right mix of residence and commerce make an appealing urban neighborhood
Brecht's weather report was wrong. World War II brought almost total destruction, followed by decades in which the city was ideologically and physically divided. The western portion was a free-world island in an unfriendly, totalitarian sea. The cutoff eastern half withered under communism. But there was still more high drama. In 1989, the dividing walls were literally pushed down and the city and the country were again united, setting off a massive - and expensive - rebirth. Berlin is again Germany's capital. And, for the traveler with a bent for recent history, Europe's number one travel destination. WHAT DO YOU WANT TO DO NEXT?
The streets and byways around the Savignyplatz quarter comprise one of the city's most appealing neighborhoods. Located just north of the fashionable Kurfürstendamm's many attractions, it is an area of diverse shops and dozens of restaurants representing a wide variety of cultures. Its tree-lined streets are sedate compared to the bustle and hurry of the Ku'damm and it offers that just-right mix of residence and commerce that seems to mark the best urban neighborhoods. Here are some of its shops, restaurants, and nightclubs plus our recommended hotel. THE HOTEL The little Hotel Art Nouveau, located on Leibnizstrasse, just off the Ku'damm and within easy walking distance of all the area's shops and restaurants, has that rare combination of charm, perfect location, comfort, and gemütlich atmosphere that characterizes the best small city hotels. The engaging, accommodating owners, Christin and Gerd Schlenzka, both speak excellent English and seem always on hand to give wise counsel on what to do and see in Berlin and which are the best restaurants. The hotel's high-ceilinged rooms are spacious and airy and each has its own Art Deco look. The best of them, the "blue suite," is two spacious rooms in a quiet location away from the street with hardwood floors, interesting art, and comfortable furnishings. Number 10, is a large corner double with a love seat niche. Another large double is Number 8, though on the street side. A fine breakfast buffet is laid out each morning in the hotel's sunny salon whose high windows look out over the neighborhood. Evenings this same room becomes an impromptu gathering spot for pre- or post-prandial beverages from the honor bar. Daily Rates: Singles E95 to E140 ($103-$152), doubles E110 to E165 ($119-$179), suite E175 to E230 ($190 to $249). Search/book hotels at all price levels in Berlin THE NEIGHBORHOOD Mommenstrasse
Leibnizstrasse: between Mommenstrasse and Niebuhrstrasse
Niebuhrstrasse
Bleibtreustrasse
Knesebeckstrasse
Grolmanstrasse
FOOD Restaurant Florian Probably the best restaurant in the Savignyplatz neighborhood. A bit yuppie, a bit smoky, and a bit cramped, a "scene" in other words. Service is accommodating but what comes on the plate is the real attraction. Dishes sound traditional but are done in the lighter style of the "new" German cuisine. Here's a rundown on a recent dinner there. A meal's quality is often foretold by its salad and Florian's, with crisp rucola leaves coated with a wonderfully smoky dressing and topped with Parmesan shavings, promised great things to come. We weren't disappointed. Ochsenbrust (about $17) turned out to be a heap of the tenderest, most flavorful slices of boiled beef we've ever had. Of course, there was a rugged, homemade horseradish and an accompanying saute of vegetables had just the right touch of buttery sweetness. A rich Sauerbraten (about $15) was nearly the equal of the Ochsenbrust. The homemade Spätzle served with it was about as good as the dish gets and the breaded cauliflower was faultless. The restaurant's interior is a series of fairly small rooms with plain white walls and hardwood floors. In summer, you can dine outside. Clientele is an interesting mix of locals from the neighborhood, artists, actors and Berlin yuppies. After 11pm try the bratwurst and sauerkraut. Fine people watching. This is a popular place, so reserve ahead. On warm summer days you'll want to be outside. Florian, Grolmanstr. 52, D-10623, Berlin, tel. +49/030/313 91 84 Wegner & Lutter Here ebony wood trim, brass rails, and friendly service, combine to create a cozy, clubby charm. The traditional dishes are skillfully prepared with first-rate ingredients. Try braised-then-baked lamb chops (about $18) in a richly intense red wine sauce; fall-over-the-plate Wiener Schnitzel (about $16) any Vienna restaurant would be proud of; or perhaps calves liver with Spargel (about $16) sprinkled with crunchy bread crumbs in butter. Top supporting cast members include splendid roast potatoes and a warm potato salad with just the right touch of vinegar and Speck. Try an Italian red wine; Pomino Rosso (about $35) it's worth every pfennig. Tavola Calda Wonderful, small neighborhood favority that typifies the diversity and quality of Berlin restaurants. Italian chef and servers are testament to the cuisine's authenticity. Top-notch calves lliver, fresh fish and pasta, of course. Fine, friendly service in a small dining room often still full at 11:30pm - always a good sign. It's handy, too, to the Hotel Art Nouveau just up the street. Book ahead. Tavola Calda, Leibnizstr. 45, tel. +40/030/3241048. Other Restaurants of Note Spree Athen The idea here is to reprise the ambience of dining in the parlor of a prewar Berlin house with a little cabaret thrown in. Accompanied by a piano, a young woman sings the tunes of the Marlene Dietrich and Lotte Lenya era. Great idea but both music and food are inconsistent. Spree Athen, Leibnizstrasse 60, tel. +49/030/324-1733. Samos Inexpensive, no-frills Greek restaurant just down the street from the Art Nouveau. Forget the Germanic menu items here, this is the place for hummus, tsatziki, dolma, feta cheese, pita bread, and lamb dishes such as souvlaki, all with good Berliner beer or cheap house red wine. About $15 per person buys heaps of good food, though modest appetites can get by for much less with just a plate of mixed Greek appetizers. Samos, Leibnizstrasse 56, tel. +49/030/883-6111 MUSIC A Trane Jazz-Club |
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