Hockenheim Hotels

If you decide to go to Hockenheim, book your room as early as possible. Nearby hotels, none of which offer much in the way of atmosphere or amenities, may be almost entirely booked by the racing teams. The Holiday Inn Walldorf, for example, seemed to have been taken over by Ferrari. A small crowd had staked out the parking lot in hopes of catching a glimpse of their hero, and you could only enter if you were a guest of the hotel or a guest of Ferrari. Of course, hotels often take Grand Prix to mean especially high rates to apply just for that weekend. To find lower rates, you may be better off staying farther afield and spending more time driving in. You can always camp in the cornfields to cut down on traffic time.

Hotel Mondial

Frankly, the only reason for travelers to stay here is its convenience to Hockenheim or other events. It is reasonably clean, modern, functional, and reasonably friendly as a small business hotel, but in the middle of a characterless suburb. We stayed here only because all rooms were taken in Heidelberg. Common areas, while not warm or particularly inviting, are well maintained and only slightly worn. We were offered a welcome drink at the bar, which is part of the narrow front lobby. Since there is no night clerk, guests must take keys with them if they go out at night. Bike rental and shuttle service to the business park are also available.

Room 303 was on the street side of a light-filled gray corridor. However, the combination of no air conditioning, no shade, and black cotton curtains created an unbearable oven on what had to be the hottest weekend of the summer. I would recommend getting a room overlooking the back yard. There is a rooftop sauna with a terrace, but the sauna in our room was more than sufficient.

Clean and otherwise comfortable, the stark black-and-white, vaguely Art-Deco-ish décor was quite masculine. There was a double twin bed, and two small black leather chairs. The bathroom, equipped with a tub, shower, sink, and hairdryer, was also done in contemporary black tile with florescent tube lighting and mirrors. A mini bar, built-in clock radio and wall desk, TV, dial-up internet, and ironing board rounded out the equipment.

The breakfast buffet, which was included in our rate, was served in the dining room, done with basic white walls, blue carpet, and black and gray upholstered chairs. The nicest part of the hotel was its small homey back yard, with a child’s swing set and a few toys under the trees. Apparently, the hotel sometimes arranges backyard barbecues there. Had it not been for the exceptional Grand Prix prices, the hotel would have been a reasonable value.

Contact: Hotel Mondial, Schwetzingerstrasse 123, 69168 Weisloch, tel. +49 /622/2 57 60, fax +49 /622/2 57 63 33, info@mondial-wiesloch.de, www.mondial-wiesloch.de
Daily Rates: Standard singles from €90-120, standard double twin from €110-140. Weekend rates generally about 20 percent lower, unless it is racing weekend, in which case it is €177. Rates include breakfast.
Rating: Quality 11/20, Value 13/20

Hockenheim Restaurants

Since we ate mainly frankfurters and ice cream at the racetrack, we had little opportunity to explore the gastronomic offerings of Wiesloch or Hockenheim itself. However, we did go to the following restaurants within easy driving distance—if you’re Michael Schumacher in a Ferrari.

Frankfurter Haus
I love it when a local friend takes me to a place where somewhat batty locals serve enthusiastically local food to local folk. The night before the race, our Frankfurter friend Ralf and his lovely wife met us in this popular beer garden in the suburb of Neu-Isenberg for a crock of Possmann apfelwein (apple wine, €3.25 for a pint) and traditional Frankfurter dishes. Parking is plentiful, but only if you are a regular with a nice car. The slightly batty owner spends all her time directing parking lot traffic, and it takes some time for Ralf to position his Porsche to her satisfaction alongside the fleet of BMWs and Audis. Our rental Megane doesn’t make the cut and is waved out to the street.

Once out of the lot, all chi-chi pretension drops away, and everyone sits at wooden tables under big square umbrellas drinking beer and eating big portions of honestly cooked food. Ralf insisted we spike the somewhat weak, sticky apfelwein with sparkling water, a dubious improvement. Their favorite dish was the classic boiled beef (Tafelspitz, €14.80) served with boiled potatoes, sliced carrots and celery root moistened with a ladleful of the hot cooking liquid. Bowls of sauerkraut and Frankfurt green sauce, which tastes somewhat like a green Tartar sauce made of chopped herbs and hard boiled egg, were served on the side. I felt the best dish was the spanferkelbraten, thick baby pork chops with a thick, super-crunchy crackling, served with sliced stuffing and rich, natural meat juices. (€13.90). They also listed hard-to-find dishes like roast goose and beers were €2.50-3.50. Desserts (average €5) included an excellent rote gruze or red berry pudding with vanilla cream and a very curious savory dessert called “handkäse mit ‘Musik’” (“hand cheese with ‘Music’”). This consisted of a soft, fresh square of cheese covered with chopped raw onion and caraway seeds and served with a tiny side salad. Go figure.

No culinary fireworks, but good-quality, old-fashioned food at a reasonable price in a historic inn and beer garden with a convivial atmosphere. Near a large park. This is a good stop for people driving down to Hockenheim from Frankfurt.

Contact: Frankfurter Haus, Darmstädter Landstrasse 741, 63263 Neu-Isenberg (just south of Frankfurt), tel. +49/610/231 466, fax +49/610/232 6899
info@frankfurter-haus.de, www.frankfurter-haus.de
Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 14/20

Palmbräu Haus
Snarled traffic inspired is to take an unscheduled pit stop in Eppingen on the way back to Stuttgart. We found a pleasant enough haven at Palmbräu Haus, a nice and moderately priced eatery with garden tables in summer. It’s located in a peach stucco and limestone building across from one of the several half-timbered houses in downtown Eppingen. The restaurant is rather charming, filled with curios and photos. The food is unreconstructed regional cooking--another honest, workmanlike meal of just slightly lower quality than Frankfurter Haus. We chose just one course each. The best was the pork chops (€16.80)  in a fresh chanterelle cream sauce, although I suspect the “house” spätzle of being ready-made and the sauce made with a commercial base. There was also Zweibelrostbraten vom Rumpsteak, a thin, slightly overcooked but still tender escallop of beef smothered with braised onion and meat juices and yet more spätzle (€15.80) Appetizers and soups ranged from €3.80-9.80, while the main courses ran from €12-20.

We felt the food was a bit overpriced for what it was, although it was quite decent quality. We left satisfied if a little underwhelmed. Still, the traffic jam was all cleared up by the time we left.

Contact: Palmbräu Haus, Rappenauer Strasse 5, 75031 Eppingen, tel. +49/726/28 422,
Artur Weber family
Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 11/20