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Swiss Mountain High | Print |  E-mail
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Read more like this: Switzerland Destinations

The Jungfrau/Lauterbrunnen Valley region tops our list of Essential Swiss Destinations.
By Jim Johnson

The Jungfrau region has attracted throngs of travelers since the British tourism boom of the late 19th century. Then, as now, this four-season wonderland draws outdoor enthusiasts and adventurers, as well as those who come simply to relax and be overwhelmed by the incredible beauty of stunning mountains with blue-green glaciers.

Active visitors can ski, hike, bike, snowshoe, fish, paraglide, sled, swim, skate, ride horses, boat and climband thats the short list. Such adventurous types mingle amicably with the more laid-back visitors who are content to watch the world from their hotel balcony or from a cable car or funicular.

Whether arriving by train or car, visitors must pass through Interlaken, the valley gateway to the nearby mountain villages of Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Mürren and Wengenthe Jungfrau regions main stops. While some make Interlaken their valley base camp for Jungfrau activities and take daily excursions into the mountains, travelers already in the mountains have a head start on most of the fun. There, rugged trailsfor both hikers and cyclists start at their doorsteps. In some villages, ski lifts are just a graceful glide away.

For many, the culmination of a trip to the region is a visit to the Jungfraujoch. From Kleine Scheidegg (a high plateau accessible by train from either Grindelwald or Wengen), the Jungfrau Railway travels primarily through a tunnel to the Top of Europe station, where visitors can view the panorama from an observation terrace or outdoor viewing areas, tour the Ice Palace in the Aletsch glacier, dine in a variety of restaurants, and ski (generally April-October), hike, or go sledding with huskies.

Grindelwald and Wengen are foremost among the many alpine communities in the Bernese Oberland region: farm towns that have migrated to the less physically demanding profession of tourism. Today, it is the number one industry, with all the attendant pluses and minuses. On the plus side, the tourism infrastructure is strong, excellent lodging exists in all categories, and restaurants meet most tastes. Even the regions six independent railways recently got their act together to create a single ticketing authority.

On the other hand, the commercial centers of each town have an almost cookie-cutter, post-1950s feel. Even car-free Wengen can seem congested. Though in both villages souvenir stores dominate, its not the shopping areas people come for. Its the mountains, the glaciers, the clear air and the outdoor activities.

Grindelwald

The village lies at the base of the legendary North Face of the Eiger, one of climbings best-known challenges. The mountain stands starkly as a nearly vertical wall, climbing to a 13,025-foot (3,970-meter) summit. Behind it looms the Jungfrau in snow-topped majesty. Between them, two glaciers carve through stone. Lifts carry guests to adjacent ski and hiking areas, or higher toward activities nearer the Jungfrau.

Vestiges of the Victorian golden age remain in structures like the Grand Hotel Regina, the Hotel Schweizerhof and the chalet-style Hotel Kirchbühl. Rustic charm is just a short distance away where chalets overlook valleys, farms and, of course, those prime drawing cards, mountains and glaciers.

Though cars are allowed in Grindelwald, theres not a lot of traffic. Still, visitors will find the towns charm increases in direct proportion to distance from the train station and the main road.

Wengen

Though higher, car-free, and more remote than Grindelwald, some visitors find less charm in Wengen. Much of the towns activity away from the hills and slopesis focused in a small commercial area, and when its busy the town can feel uncomfortably confining. When it isn't, it seems a bit desolate.

Wengen appeals especially to visitors who want to be close to the outdoor action. In Grindelwald, though hiking routes crisscross the town, skiers and mountaineers still must travel a short distance on foot,  by bus, car or lift. But access to such activities is virtually at your doorstep in Wengen. 

 

 



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