Here is an absolute antidote to the traffic and noise of European cities crowded with tourists. Starting at the east end of Lac Leman (Lake Geneva) the auto (or train) traveler can follow the Rhne river to its source, the Rhône Glacier, high in the mountains between the Furka and Grimsel Passes.

At Brig, the road begins to rise and passes through - and by - a number of interesting mountain villages including Fiesch, Ernen, Niederwald and Münster (all accessible by rail as well as car). This section of the upper Rhône Valley is known as the Goms (Conches Valley).

One could easily conclude it is a place that looks much as it did a couple of hundred years ago. The area is characterized by spectacular mountain scenery and rough wooden buildings which weather to a deep brown that makes them appear almost charred.

After about 24 hours in the Goms, big-city culture hounds will probably be bored stiff. But the connoisseur of peace and quiet, awesome vistas, hearty country food, and outdoor activities, will relish every minute of his or her stay in this unspoiled corner of Switzerland.

This is not to say the area is bereft of culture. There are some 70 Baroque churches with great altars and works of art, and the area's long traditions of arts and craft are very much alive. The village church at Münster, for example, which contains an elaborate altarpiece from 1509, is certainly worth a look and the Baroque Church at Reckingen is also noteworthy. The village of Ernen is internationally renowned for its annual piano and chamber music masters classes.

But it is the outdoor stuff that attracts most visitors; walking, climbing, rafting and, of course, skiing. In fact, the Goms is reputed to have Switzerland's best cross-country skiing and had the 2006 Winter Olympic Games been awarded (as they should have) to Sion, the cross-country events would have been held here.

The regional tourist office at Fiesch says no holiday in the Goms is complete without a breakfast outing on the Fiesch-Eggishorn cable car. As the car slowly ascends the mountain, riders enjoy a generous buffet breakfast (38 Sfr). Another tourist office suggestion, witnessing the dawn from the Eggishorn, is one we'll leave to earlier risers.

Auto travelers will find one of Switzerland's great views from Gletsch at the valley's end. From the bend in the road to the Furka Pass, at the Belvedere Hotel, one can see not only the Rhône Glacier but views of the Bernese and Valais Alps.

If you plan a short stay, there are many hotels from which to choose, most of them simple but charming in the way that is unique to small Swiss mountain hotels. For longer visits, you might want to pick from among the hundreds of private chalet and apartment rentals available in every village. Prices for these range from 30 Sfr. to 130 Sfr. per day depending upon season and the number of persons accommodated. Some have a minimum stay requirement of only three days.