By Nikki Goth Itoi

Situated at the junction of two historic mountain passes—the Julier and the Septimer—at the edge of the Engadine preserve, and just 22 km from the famed ski resort of St. Moritz, this alpine village of 260 residents offers convenient access to some of the most spectacular hiking, wildflower blooms, and ski touring found anywhere in the Alps. Backcountry skiers do overrun the town during the winter high season, but they are primarily Swiss, German, and Austrian visitors, not Americans.

Summer brings hikers, mountain bikers, and motorcyclists to the winding roads and rugged terrain. (Also among Bivio’s regular guests are herds of cows that arrive by train from farms near Bern to graze the surrounding pastures in summer—no wonder the milk chocolate tastes so good.) And in the spring and autumn shoulder months, you have the place all to yourself.

In Roman times, traders en route from Milan to Munich stopped over in Bivio (which means Parting of the Ways) to replenish supplies before or after crossing the Alps. The town was formerly known as Stalla (Stall) for the number of horses that passed through. Accordingly, Bivio’s founding families are Italian, but German is the language of business, and many locals understand at least some English. In typical Swiss fashion, conversations begin with a Grützi, blend Italian and German interchangeably, and end with Mercí or Ciao.
Early settlers built the Catholic church St. Gallus in 1518, and it features a Gothic alter created by a famous wood carver from Memmingen, Germany, named Yvo Strigel. (The church is only open during regular Sunday services, and a sign outside reminds visitors that it is a place of worship and not a museum.)

After much disagreement among Bivio’s founding residents, a Protestant church followed in 1671. According to the agreement, however, the new church was not allowed to add a bell tower for a period of 100 years. Aside from these two churches and a community swimming pool, there are few indoor attractions in Bivio—the point, after all, is to enjoy the outdoors.

Today, most travelers arrive in Bivio from the train stations in Chur or Tiefencastle. Drivers can follow the breathtaking Julierpass out of St. Moritz. (Bus service from St. Moritz is seasonal.) A handful of hotels, restaurants, and shops line the main street through town, with a few dozen homes and vacation rentals set back on side streets. You can get everywhere on foot, or by bicycle (for rent through the tourist office).
Bivio is surrounded on all sides by waterfalls, lakes, fields, and forest. Wilderness trails begin just steps from every guestroom in town. Strategically placed benches overlook the village, so you don’t have to wander far to be rewarded with a view. For a short excursion, follow the 12-station Vitapars course, a popular fitness route for locals. Or hike part of the Stallerberg trail, which begins directly behind the Hotel Solaria.

The most popular outdoor route for cyclists and hikers is to follow the Septimerpass, which begins near the Hotel Post at the north end of town. The road is paved for about a mile and then turns to dirt as you pass a few outlying farms. Soon, you begin to climb, and the route continues along a steep but not technical path, gaining 600 meters in elevation at the summit. Thankfully, the scenery—waterfalls, wildflowers, and snow-capped peaks—distracts you from the physical challenge at hand.

An easier way to cover more ground is to travel the pass by horse. From June to October, Giancarlo and Genny Torriani, who run the Hotel Solaria, lead horseback trips to a valley called Bondo on the other side of the pass. Despite the alpine location, a micro climate warms Bondo to Mediterranean temperatures that are perfect for an evening of cooking on the outdoor grill and dining in the garden of a historic family farmhouse. Overnight visitors stay at the guesthouse and return to Bivio the next day. One-day trips over the Septimerpass and evening rides to the nearby Alp Natons for wine and views are a good alternative for travelers with less time.

A few kilometers north of Bivio is Marmorera Lake, a manmade reservoir that supplies water to nearby towns during the winter months. Beyond, lies the larger town of Savognin, which runs a chairlift in summer and has a couple of spas, including Bad Alvaneu (Albulstrasse, CH-7473 Alvaneu Bad, tel. +41/081 420 4400, fax 4402, e-mail info@bad-alvaneu.ch, Web www.bad-alvaneu.ch).

For ambitious hikers, an alternative to the Septimerpass is to summit the Stallerberg and then descend to the 20-person settlement of Juf, reportedly the highest elevation village in all of Europe. The hike begins directly behind the Solaria and takes about two and a half hours each way. (Stock up on lunch supplies at the bakery in the Hotel Solaria.) You can also drive to Juf by heading north to Tiefencastle and then back south on a parallel road, but the journey would take almost as long as the hike.